Caracterización y diferenciación de los aceites vírgenes de oliva de la comarca del Priorat (Tarragona) dentro del mercado global de aceites de la variedad ’Arbequina’

Abstract

Olive production in the Priorat area raws on „Arbequina‟ cultivar and is included into PDO “Siurana” (Tarragona), with 2.900 ha and yielding 4.700 t fruits in average, equivalent to 900 t of virgin oil. This oil competes with 100.000 t of oil from the same cultivar produced worldwide (more than a half out of Catalonia and using new technologies to reduce costs and enhance profitability). This was the reason to promote the Priorat‟s Producer Association (PPA) in order to build a commercial structure to gain high value markets, similar to those used by high quality wines of this area. PPA proposed in 2002 an agreement with IRTA and the Agricultural Services from the Catalan Government with the aim to develop a scientific and technical program to characterize and differentiate virgin oils from Priorat and setting objective criteria to select high quality oils different from others „Arbequina‟. This ought to improve current commercialization. This thesis includes all scientific aspects supporting the commercial application of the program. Research goals were: (1) to characterize oils from Priorat using physic, chemical and sensorial parameters; (2) to assess if these oils can be differentiated from others produced with the same cultivar „Arbequina‟ in other regions; (3) to test their “typicality”, related to Priorats‟ climate and soil characteristics; and (4) to characterize olive production and mill technology in Priorat. The study was carried out during a six years period (2002-03 to 2008-09 harvests) with systematic analysis of almost 100% virgin oil produced in the area (6.308.124 liters). Olive crop production was studied using a questioner, while mill technology was assessed by registering processing conditions along harvest every year. The relationship between oil quality and climate, soils and cultural practices was studied. Chemical parameters analyzed were: sensory profile, physic and chemical quality parameters, fatty acids, sterols, total polyphenols, bitterness index, stability and, sometimes, waxes and volatiles. Methodology was similar to that applied in many scientific studies on virgin oil characterization in wide areas, usually linked to PDO in Spain and Italy. Results reliability depends on oil sampling representativeness. Both univariate and multivariate statistics were used. Results show that up to 54% of Priorat virgin oils made with „Arbequina‟ can be classified to be typical and different from other producing regions, even the neighboring areas of Garrigues and Siurana-Camp. Such differences are both sensorial (mainly pungency, secondary aromas, fruity, astringency and sweet) and chemical (fatty acids palmitoleic, oleic, pamitic, and stearic). Variability between Priorat areas, is lower than 20% (except for sterols) and seems to be random for sensory profile while is related to geography, cultural practices and climate, for chemical composition. Differences to other regions with the same cultivar are related to the Priorat‟s geography and geology (more than 50% orchards are placed higher than 400 m and over soils from Paleozoic with low fertility with transitions to quaternary sedimentary soils towards Camp of Tarragona and transitions to tertiary sedimentary soils towards Garrigues) and climate (Priorat‟s climate belongs to “south pre-littoral Mediterranean” with transitions to “dry continental Mediterranean” towards Garrigues and transitions to “south littoral Mediterranean” towards Camp of Tarragona). A mathematic model was fitted which makes possible to decide if an olive lot is able to produce virgin oil of enough quality to be classified as typical of Priorat. Fischers‟ discriminate functions were fitted that make possible to decide if a virgin oil sample has a fatty acid composition or a sensory profile characteristics from Priorat and different to other regions. Currently, these results are used to establish commercial strategies to sell Priorat virgin oils. The oil producers from this area select those more characteristics oils to be retailed (this increased from 20% at the beginning of the program to currently 65%) while the standard oils are used to self consumption or for bulk market.